venerdì 2 luglio 2021

 I am not sure why I continue to write these blog posts when there are only four people who read them, and I am pretty sure those four are people I talk to regularly. But, who know? One day, I may be famous and this blogspot will be read by millions who want to see my “early work.”  So, with that in mind, I shall recount for you four readers the tale of my day trip to Rome on Wednesday.

First, let me say that the trip was an idea I had even before planning my trip to Italy. I decided to change text books in the middle school for next year. The new book is called ‘Suburani’ and follows a working class family living in the slums of Ancient Rome. I received my examination copy in May and started reading. There are lots of pages dedicated to the culture and geography of the ancient city. I thought that I needed to refresh my Forum pictures and visit some other notable sites, such as the Circus Maximus, to complement the information in the book. I also wanted to visit the newly opened Mausoleum of Augustus. 

As soon as I arrived to Castel del Bosco, I put “ROME?” On my calendar  for 30 June. The Italian government was rescinding the outdoor mask law on Monday, 28 June, so the 30th seemed like a well chosen date. As I started researching how Rome works in the times of COVID, I discovered that EVERYTHING requires a timed entry ticket. And, many of those tickets are sold out. The mausoleum of Augustus, the Domus Aurea and the Ara Pacis all were not available and would not be available until well after my departure from Italy.

I began to doubt whether it was even worth it to go. But, the more I doubted, the more I told myself that I would be sorry if I didn’t try. So, I bought my train tickets first. I would take the treno regionale from San Miniato-Fucecchio to Firenze Santa Maria Novella at 8:09. I would take the 9:05 Freccia Rossa high speed train to Roma Termini. I booked the return for 18:40 and would do the trip in reverse.

I then began to look at tickets.  It seemed that the only sure thing was to get the 12Noon entry into the Forum-Colosseum basic ticket. So, I booked it and figured I would spend the rest of the day walking around. Rome is best seen on foot (or on a hop on hop off, which I did not see even one of).

On Tuesday overnight, I received news of my cancelled flight and I stayed up until almost 3AM reorganizing my travel. When the alarm went off at 6:45, I was exhausted. I, however, hoisted myself out of my bed and got ready to embrace the day. I was in by car by 7:30 and on the road to the train station, 15 minutes away.  I parked my car in the satellite lot and walked the few minutes to the station. I was there a good 10 minutes early. I was pleased to see so many commuters, albeit masked, ready to travel to Florence. The last time I was on the train was when I was going to meet Chiara and was accosted by the two vu’compra’ guys who were later arrested for aggravated assault and rape of women on trains upon arriving to Florence. To say I was nervous about train travel was an understatement and COVID had nothing to do with it.




The train came on time, despite having received a message from Trenitalia that they would be 6 minutes early. We made the trip quickly and without incident into Firenze. I bought a soda and boarded my next leg, also uneventfully. The Freccia Rossa had me pulling into Rome at 10:46. I opted for the base premium ticket (60 euros) which gave me a comfortable seat with a table and a place to plug in my phone. I also was offered a snack and a safety kit. I turned down the snack but took the safety kit. I was far too curious to say no. Other than sanitizer and a mask there was also another thing which I have no idea exactly what is is. It looks like it is a nose plug…




Upon arriving, I set my watch to exercise mode and set off on my mission. I was resolved to walk the whole time, no public transport or hop on hop off. I wanted to treat it as a chance to exercise, as well, since I was missing my morning walk along via dei girasoli. I walked out of the station and straight down via Cavour which deposits you exactly in front of the Imperial Forum. I was early, but I took my chances. I approached the ticket counter and showed my ticket. I asked if I could enter the forum early. I was invited courtesy to go up the via Sacra to the gate and get temp checked. So, I did. 



I walked the Forum and took lots of pictures and videos. I even made the trek up the Palatine hill. I got a real appreciation for two things: 1- The Romans were no dummies. The temperature was a good 10 degrees cooler io there, with the breeze and the abundant trees. 2- The Latin for the Palatine hill is Mons Palatino. Mons being the operative word. Mons means mountain. The Romans regarded it as a mountain. I always tell the kids that the Romans were fibbers and exaggerates because it is just a hill, not a mountain. But, in the heat, it sure felt like I have summited Everest!





Upon descending from on high, I exited the Forum and made my way around the backside of the Forum to the Circus Maximus. The Circus is open for tours to the tune of 15 euros. I opted to take pictures from outside the fence. I walked further down the interior side of the Circus and ended up in front of the Forum Boarium. I took pictures of those two iconic temples and made my way further to the Theater of Marcellus, another favorite spot. 






If you take a left into the narrow streets just beyond the Theater of Marcellus, you enter into the Jewish ghetto. I wandered the street is for a good while until I found myself looking for signs for the Pantheon. My favorite ice cream in the whole world is in a gelato shop just to the right of the Pantheon. I was ready for ice cream, rose flavored ice cream. Before reaching my next destination, I stumbled upon Piazza Navona or better known to my Latin 2’s the Stadium of Domitian. 






I stopped for a quick pic and soon I was inside Cremeria Monteforte ordering my gelato, but not after gushing to the man behind the counter how much I had been dreaming of this gelato and how I had come from Tuscany, indeed America, for this ice cream. I paid my 2.50 euros for my small cup and went immediately to my spot along the wall next to the Pantheon. This area was where the Ancient Romans voted; it was the old Campus Martius and was technically outside the sacred pomerium. I ate my gelato and imagined the people of yore assembling to cast their votes. 





After my gelato, it was time for lunch, right? I walked out of the piazza where you find the Pantheon and walked straight for 2 minutes. I found a small restaurant that had my favorite pizza on the menu (marinara). I entered, asked for a table for one and sat down. I ordered immediately and commenced people watching. I noticed that the majority of those around were natives. There were a handful of international priests and even fewer tourists. I saw one group of three women (they appeared to be from NJ) and one pair of American students. The other tourists I saw appeared to be German or Dutch. Usually, you cannot throw a rock without hitting a loud American looking for a hamburger. This year, no one.

It took almost 45 minutes to get my pizza. And, when it came, I was certain I had chosen well. It was certainly now frozen. I ate as much as I could, paid my bill (14 euros for the pizza and two coke zeros), and set back on my way. 




At this point, I was exhausted. I had walked 6.28 miles in the blazing sun. I had done all I had on my list (with the exception of walking the Subura) and decided to turn my steps back to the train. I decided that I would just change my ticket. There was a 15:10 train and I could just make it. I reset my watch and registered another 2.46 miles back to the Termini. Jerry called and FaceTimed with me almost the whole way. It was nice to have company on my walk.







I got my ticket changed (4 euros to change it) and got on board just in time for departure. I was hot, sweaty and exhausted. But, I was happy. It was a great day. I fully appreciate how lucky I am to be able to say, “hey. I want to go to Rome. Just for the day…” I am glad I didn’t let my doubts get the best of me.